Durham, Cumbria + Northumberland: Keld - Jedburgh [11th-19th July]

[Update 8]

After the highest pub in England, some more rolling bog and sprigs of heather, we were in Durham. We passed through Cumbria briefly where the rivers and waterfalls were amazing in full force. Friday 13th we all had sore feet from the bog, including Daisy's paws, so she had to go in Will's rucksack for 2 days. Cross Fell was our highest point of the trip at 893m and also the coldest so far, with no view and plenty of rain. Although we did see a flock of birds doing their 'Carlsberg' thing, like a swarm of bees.
We had a cold shelter in Greg's Hut where dried fruit couldn't quite hit the spot, but Rachel's hip flask of brandy warmed our cockles :). A fast march and some silly jokes later we were down.

Alston was a 'memorable' place with a post apocalyptic scrapyard and campsite. Jonathon's dad joined us here briefly, and treated us to the Worsley family specialty of sausages and shared some interesting facts about storing eggs while backpacking :). We bought yet more warmer clothing here, weighty but we couldn't face the damp cold anymore.

The sun came out for Will's birthday on the 15th and we reached Hadrian's Wall where we treated ourselves to a midgy pub meal (Daisy keeps us outside), but it was heaven. There at the 'Roam n Camp' site we met Terry, shortly to turn 71, who lives in a horse drawn cart and doing the Pennine Way for the sixth time. The nice lady there gave Daisy some food enabling her to recover enough for more walkies. After more bulls, bog and a barbed wire fence we arrived late at Bellingham, after 21 miles.

A nice day off followed and we stuffed ourselves with BBQ food after trying in vein to clean our socks and soothe our sore feet. We also finally met another end to ender, Tom, so we shared experiences as we were going in different directions. The next day to Byrness was even boggier and ended with midges from hell (apparantly worse than Scotland, but we'll have to see). At the first and last cafe in England we bid farewell to Terry and headed up more boggy forests, but some stunning dewy views of the Cheviots.

When we reached the Scottish border we had to sadly leave our Pennine Way walking companions who had kept our spirits up, made us laugh and shared backpacking syles (the laid back one is really contagious). Watching them go off in the distance to even boggier hills and a free half pint at Kirk Yetholm as they had completed the whole Pennine Way, we felt strangely vulnerable and alone as we had to head NE to Jedburgh.
Although I've probably painted a bleak, boggy Pennine Way, it has by far been the best part of the trip so far, no doubt because of the interesting people we've met along the way.

West and North Yorkshire: Marsden - Keld [5th-10th July]

[Update 7]

Yep, it's still raining. Sorry if you're sick of hearing about the wet stuff, but in the simple life of backpacking, food, feet and the weather dominates the day. I think we've hit our lowest point in the journey (hopefully)!

We started the day with food bags in between our socks and trainers in a n attempt to keep dry feet. Quickly failing, we passed a tempting train station, some scary village dogs and a creepy farm with police warning signs "Cottaging and Cruising is illegal"!? We raced to the Post Office to collect the next set of maps posted from home (thank you nice lady at Mytholmroyd PO for your donation), then, exhausted and soaked we reached Heptenstall.

Here the emotional roller coaster of our journey was thankfully raised by two offers of tea and one offer of a warm house for the night (unfortunately Daisy hates cats [I'm assuming they had a cat here!]) before hitting rock bottom at High Greenwood Farm where after about 28 miles we were turned away at 8pm as the weather was so 'bad'. We tried the charity bit but clearly her lush green grass was more important - fair enough, but she proceeded to blame the situation on us and that we were being cruel to the dog (a choice of walkies or being home alone all day? - hmm). We bit our tongues (until further up the road) in the hope of finding a friendly farm whilst questioning our sanity.
Thank you Jon and the Blakedean Scouts who were having a BBQ and let us stay in the graveyard next to their hut. We flopped into our tent and slept well despite realising that we were in a coffin shaped tent. There was no sign of 'The Green Lady' who supposedly haunts the ground, although Daisy seemed to bark at one of the showers in the morning!!! Perhaps she just wanted a bath? Jon's mum made us tea in the morning and lifted our spirits some more :) The simple pleasure of brushing my teeth whilst sat on a radiator was heaven.

Out in the wind and rain again we crossed the bleak moors to Top Withens ruin, supposedly Emily Bronte's inspiration for Wuthering Heights, so the sounds of Kate Bush stayed in our minds a while on the flagstones and bog.

Then...it stopped raining!
Despite Will receiving an unwanted collagen injection in his lip from a local midge, things were looking up. In Cowling, dripping cooked fish 'n' chips were marvelous and I finally had a bit of power in my phone after the solar panel had been waterproofed and strapped to my back for days.

A dry 4 days followed which made the moody moors more hospitable, then canal and limestone valleys led us to nostalgic locals and passionate Pennine Way walkers. Busy looking at the only canal, river and train crossing point we missed the shop, but Daisy seemed happy with pork scratchings and pasta. After climbing Pen-y-ghent, Horton-in-Ribblesdale was our half way point which we celebrated with cider and pork and apple burgers.

Then, two days following the stench of dead rabbits and dodging 'Bulls in Field' we had marshmallows around a midge expelling campfire in Keld with some new fellow backpackers who we'd see along the Pennine Way, Jonathon, Rachel and Adam. But whatever happened to Pete?

Derbyshire and South Yorkshire: Thorpe - Marsden [28th June - 4th July]

[Update 6]

At last, a dry day as we entered Dovedale. Stone cottages, herds of walkers and sheep s@#t laden hills immediately lifted our spirits. The famous Stepping Stones were well hidden in the sparkling river after all the rain, but the limestone valley was amazing - and only one horsefly!
By the end of the day the rain was back, but Derbyshire's friendly locals and pretty villages proved good motivation.

We discovered the best ever melt in your mouth pasties and Well Dressing mosaics at Youlgreave before reaching the lush green Chatsworth estate and then the gritstone and peat on Stanage Edge. No climbers to be seen here for a change, just giant ants, Highland cows and a good few content toads.

On reaching our 500 mile point at Hathersage - yippee - we treated ourselves to a couple of days off. Our equipment is falling to bits and I've had to buy some thermal leggings - some summer! Our senses seem to be at one with nature too as we can detect the clean, washing powder smell of other people before we see them, which can only mean that we stink. Will's Auntie Les and Uncle John confirmed our 'au de damp' smell, but treated us to a well missed roast dinner - thanks :)

After sitting out what we thought was the worst of the weather, the heavens opened even wider when we rejoined Stanage Edge. The 'Alternative Pennine Way' passed lots of interesting rock formations, reservoirs and brown frothing rivers to meet wild moors of flowering heather...and mud. A mountain hare, grouse and laughing curlews helped to keep Daisy interested as we entered and left South Yorkshire to meet the actual Pennine Way. Unfortunately the man at the campsite said the rain was here until August...eek and added that this was the official end of the Pennine Way (2 days in) as most people give up here. I could see why!

Shropshire and Staffordshire: Knighton - Thorpe [21st-27th June]

[Update 5]

Sorry, too much rain to take any photo's along this bit so here's one of Daisy taking a nap in our tent at Melrose in Scotland.

Oops, my little toenail has fallen off. This walk has now officially turned into a challenge! Before now the target seemed so far away, but after this hard section of daily rain, wet socks, a wet dog and tent and lack of campsites we've been guilty of mile counting. We've also given up on our legs recovering soon as that hobble to the shower is not getting any easier.
BUT, it's not all bad news, we know that these are the parts we'll remember with a giggle!?

Various things have helped us keep our chins up on wet days gazing through pub windows at roast dinners (why did we get a dog, God I miss veg'), jelly babies, a dry phone box to eat hot bakery goods, an owl, poppy fields, canal boats and being offered a lift over a flooded road (don't worry we didn't cheat)!
Two friendly farms lifted our spirits by very kindly providing us with a field to sleep in. The first saved our bacon after a Youth Hostel didn't take dogs and the campsite no longer took tents. On the way to the farm we passed by a built up area where the grocery shops sold nothing but crisps, chocolate and alcohol, so we opted for fish a nd chips (again). We ate these on a golf course and received a random donation from a nice man called Martin :-). The farm lady had stopped doing camping for 10 years but let us stay in one of their cow dung fields. We were more than grateful, she even offered us a bath (we were mad for not taking her up on that offer) and gave us some divine fresh milk straight from the cow shed. It was like nursery milk that you used to get with those little biscuits with the cows on.
The second farm was hosting a 'folk in a field' charity event with, can you believe it, a beer tent, 'real' food and loo's! How lucky was that, plus the farmer had been sailing in Gosport that morning, it's such a small world! We're now going to be in their local community magazine too. After we enjoyed the excellent folk music we were zoinked so regrettably we declined their kind invite to the after party - Daisy isn't the best dog for socialising either. If you're in the Brewood, Staffordshire area next June, be sure to check it out.

Finally, our first campsite in three days provided us with a shower in Uttoxeter (I'm surprised they let us in) and at last, a dry tent and socks... for now! The birds were singing and the hills were coming into view - the Pennine Way was approaching - yippee - so I promised that I wouldn't moan about it being too hot to walk in ever again!

Gloucester, Monmouthshire and Powys: Congresbury - Knighton [11th-20th June]

[Update 4]

We wanted to get through busy Bristol and the river Severn ASAP, so after hundreds of hot dusty lorries, horseflies (and hairdresser shops), we reached Severn Beach after a 25 mile hike, exhausted, only to find the camp site had gone! Thankfully a local pointed us to an angel who let us stay on her field.
Daisy was a bit scared on the wobbly Avon Mouth and Severn Bridge, but once over we could see those lovely hills ahead.

Relieved to be back on a national trail, our first camp site on the Offa's Dyke path had a 'refreshing' outdoor pool and swallows nesting in the loo. Here we met Kenny, who was doing the trail twice for charity, who we kept bumping into. Unfortunately it was the start of a rainy period - all because we had our first BBQ!
We followed the trail for 5 days to Knighton where we reluctantly had to turn off in order to meet the Pennine way.
It's been a really lovely historic section (despite all the young bulls, styles - apparently 85 in one day, and being spat out onto a road from a brambly forest) where we passed old Abbeys, villages, misty forests, the Wye Valley and its jumping salmon (and horseflies of course) and the Hatteral ridge in the Black Mountains.
We also met loads of fellow backpackers and lovely, interesting Welsh folk. One in particular is the owner of the Little Oasis campsite in Pandy. If you like small farm-like sites and are backpacking that way you just have to meet Bill Evans. He'll have you chatting for hours about his interesting life. He used to make toys which he sold on to Disney, he's had Adam Faith and Tom Jones in his cafe (among others) and has doubled for Sean Connery in the film 'First Knight'. He has also made a stunning water feature in memory of his late wife and he gave us some invaluable advice for preventing blisters - sheeps wool, free, environmentally friendly and it works! We also saw BBC Coast's presenter Nick Crane in the Wye Valley, but he was too busy filming to ask him for sponsor money!

Weather is looking increasingly ominous and I still can't charge the phone, but we're still really enjoying it! Losing lots of weight too!

Somerset and North Somerset: Barnsaple - Congresbury [4th-10th June]

[Update 3]

In Somerset already and still scoffing copious amounts of food. Funny how everything tastes good when you're backpacking! We're now managing to get away by 7am most days, and have passed some ridiculously pretty villages with old rose cottages and trickling streams, mysterious forests, Exmoor (with large cats on our minds) and miles of country lanes. With few camp sites and high mileage we've welcomed the hundreds of bronze beetles on the path, fighter jets, birds of prey and a fox tucking in to a rather large lunch!

We had a lovely day off at Westermill campsite in Exmoor (as Will's feet were on fire and I was hobbling about like a robot at the end of the day) where some swallows were nesting in the laundry room. We then stayed in a damp, smoky camping barn one night and met and chatted to a lovely lady called Helen. We all experienced the noises of a farm and watched some lambs get hand fed, before we had to leave Helen to get our first view of Wales beyond the Quantock hills.

Bridgewater was a sudden culture shock, but we did get some sponsor money at the Fairways camp site :). Missing the coast a bit, the scenery flattened on the flood plains (some scary farm dogs there) and a long humid stretch followed but the local strawberries and raspberries kept us going.

A disused railway line, the Strawberry Line at Cheddar led us thought the Mendip hills and into a welcome long damp tunnel, emerging into North Somerset and some cider orchards - their local cider is knock out! Tip toeing over some teeny baby frogs the lane brought us towards Bristol.

Just having a few problems charging the phone with the new solar panel though!

Devon: Bude - Barnstaple [31st May - 3rd June]

[Update 2]

Well, Devon has definitely been an eat as much as we can phase. The 'Pocket Rocket' stove and titanium pots combination create a distinctive mix of BBQ and burnt - mmm.

Devon has shot by, the scenery now more rolling lush green farm land. Still lots of steps to climb, but more overgrown, so wet feet, hay fever and my first tick (about Will's 50th). "Aah the joys of walking" as a passer by put it. As the flowers changed colour and the foxgloves stretched higher we passed rock pools, an old shipwreck and the dreaded cows (still overcoming our fear after being chased because of their interest in Daisy).

We found sanctuary from the rain in an old driftwood hut in the cliffs where the local vicar used to smoke his pipe, then a camp site with a menu! So we scoffed enormous scones while watching the sunset behind Lundy.
A bluebell forest led us to the steep cobbled street of Clovelly where we picked up our next 2 sets of maps and passed a few backpackers with enormous rucksacks. Phew, thank goodness we were so strict with our kit!

Our last day in Devon followed a long estuary around to the never ending tarmac 'Tarka Trail' and a busy Barnstaple where we scoffed crappy burgers and hot dogs, which completely reversed the rare find of an organic shop next to the camp site the day before (which had incidentally made up for the awful communal showers there).

For Somerset we hope to perfect getting up early to avoid the heat...